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Motor Mount Swap-out

I’ve complained previously about the hydraulic upper motor mounts found on 2004-2006 MINIs. They fail pretty quickly, leaking oil over the passenger-side frame rail, allowing the motor to buck around. Consequently you get worse shifting, additional stress on associated attachments, and more drama all around in demanding driving situations. But it’s one of those maintenance items that creeps up slowly, as the fluid leaks out fully and you fail to notice the gradual deterioration.

I remember mine started leaking early – probably in the 40,000 mile range – before the warranty was up, but I did not bring it to Keeler because I knew they’d try to pin its failure on the aftermarket dampener I had thrown on previously (they’d been fashionable, providing another attachment between sub-frame and engine, and functioning to pep up throttle response and shifting feel – proof of the slop in the stock arrangement even when new). It’s hard to rationalize how decreased movement would cause premature mount failure (and empirically they’re failing early on bone-stock vehicles as well) but I’d gotten that type of response before when bringing the car in for issues.

Last week I got the chance to change out the upper mount, and it’s been a wonderful step back toward the tight, new, snappy feeling of the car when it first puttered out of Keeler’s bays four years ago. Well, almost.

I went with a replacement from Texas Speedwerks, who I’ve dealt with previously and felt confident in getting a quality product from. The TSW mount is urethane, similar to what the 2002-2003 cars had (I haven’t peered at an 02-03 to see how similar / dissimilar they really are, but I know the TSW design is new from the ground up).

I’ve always thought the MINI’s gearbox and shifting feel are pretty spot on perfect, but the increased engine movement due to the failed mount necessitated longer shifts, lest I ground the gear while engaging. Hard launches had similarly been affected, with more wheel hop and dreadful clunky noises.

The installation of the upper mount is fairly straightforward – I split it into two days with requisite beer breaks, and replaced the belt tensioner at the same time since the engine was getting jacked upward a smidge already.

The TSW mount has gotten the shifting back to near perfection (what more could you ask for, a little less throw? hmmm…) and civilized the car when its ordered to a rapid pace from rest. In fact, on both counts, it’s markedly improved from stock. There’s no need for an accessory dampener now and everything is as tight as I feel it needs to be.

(The belt tensioner was perhaps a premature repair – my stethoscope still picks up terrible noise when trained on the tensioner: I believe this is due to the wobbly crank pulley in close (almost touching, flip side of belt) proximity. It’s not at an urgent level, but this is high on my to-do list. Still, the old tensioner did have some slop in the pulley and damper, and deserved to be replaced at some point.)

So crisper shifting and accelerating, what’s the catch? I tried to cheap out and not replace the lower mount, that’s what. Only upon completing my repairs last week did I finally notice cracks in the rubber bushing of the lower mount, which takes the brunt of it after the upper fails. So I’ve got a noticeable increase in off idle vibration, which happens to everyone who replaces the upper mount and leaves the lower in its shoddy state. It’s not terrible, but I went ahead and ordered the whole mount online for half the price Keeler quoted me for just the bushing. It ought to mitigate most if not all of the additional vibration. I decided to stick with the OE rubber bushing here since I’m not making the jump to stiffer polyurethane bushings anywhere else, with their maintenance requirement and increased NVH.

The lower mount arrived today but it’s raining and temps are in the 40s, so I’ll bolt ‘er in once it warms. It’s just two bolts so it’ll take some ramps, a jack, and fifteen minutes. The ultimate verdict on acceptable or not increase in vibration from the TSW mount will then be in and reported.

Edit 5/3/10: After replacing the lower mount… there’s still a tiny bit of new vibration, but I’m not sure I’d say its <em>increased</em> over stock – more like its a different frequency. I’ve got some slight new rattles as a result coming from the dash, the kind where you push on some of the cheap plastic and it goes away. *shrug* It’s an acceptable trade-off for me.

Brakes and Event #1

I had my brakes replaced under warranty at about this time last year, after getting the car inspected and told the brakes were barely legal. Apparently Keeler only replaced the front pads, as about two months ago my idiot brake light came on. Determined to do the job myself and avoid expensive OE mark-up, I looked into various options you might call a “stage one” brake upgrade. Pads, rotors, and fluid. Originally I wanted to include stainless steel brake lines and metal caliper bushings, but with a tight budget and both of these upgrades being more about feel and less about actual performance, I skipped them for the time being.

After a bit of searching, I finally went with Carbotech Bobcat 1521 pads and the Texas Speedwerks rotors (along with Motul RBF600). This combination promised better initial and overall bite than stock with less fade, and was available from a prominent MINI vendor, AutoXCooper.com.

(Unlike many,) I had always been fairly content with the stock brakes. I thought they were adequate for autocross, although I had experienced fade on the streets during more “spirited” runs. But after running this new brake combo for several weeks, I have to say that it’s a significant improvement. The difference is especially appreciable during autocross, where I’m able to brake harder and later, shaving off valuable tenths / hundredths of a second.

May 11th was Mother’s Day and the first home points event with MoHud. The event was held at the McCarty Parking Lot in Albany, an odd little lot sandwiched between highways. There were 48 entries and the recent upgrades to the MINI (aforementioned brake upgrade, coilovers, tune, Schroth Quickfit harness) have made my little car extremely more competitive. I had the 5th fastest raw time and placed 3rd out of 11 entries in SM. I was beaten by the same car with two drivers (with the co-driver beating the owner). I was .119 seconds off of second place and .182 off of first. This was a car that I was consistently a second and a half (or more) slower last season. Granted he’s running old tires, but I feel as if this season will be much more interesting than last year where I placed 4th-5th on a good day. I was running sloppy and could have made up the difference given a few more runs.

The next event is June 15th, Father’s Day, which will be at Columbia-Green Community College. We’ll be running the event in conjunction with the Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club. I’m looking forward to this one because it sounds like the lot is in good shape and I might have convinced a few more MINIs to show, including another in SM who provides a good benchmark (this will be the first time we’re both running dedicated autox r-comps, Kumho V710 vs Hoosier A6).

And then I need to decide whether to make the trek to Divisionals at Seneca Army Depot, a two day event in August. Because of our shortened season it’s being considered a points event for MoHud (we’re hosting). I assume the year end awards will be decided by who will and won’t be able to make it. It’s a four hour drive and you’re there all weekend. I’m not sure whether I should bother chasing points this year (never have before), but the June event will help me figure that out. If things are still looking rosy, I’ll be at Divisionals.

This has been a really dense post so I’ll leave it at that, but I still haven’t said more than two words about my new Schroth Quickfit harness, a really significant upgrade for the loose nut behind the steering wheel (literally).

And I’m not sure if I’ll be sinking more money into the car any time soon, but if I did, it’d be for a Revolution Mini Works header and cam, plus tune should Jan be in the area. The cam is being shown to be good for 10 more horsepower and pounds-torque on a stock head car, with the header probably producing the same (or more, if I replaced my leaky, rattle-prone cat-back) and the tune making the sky the limit. I’m not sure if I’ve seen a MINI with “everything but the head” as new RMW products are introduced daily and it’s possible you could be seeing 220-230+whp cars with the stock head running around spanking cars with 2x, 3x the displacement. Which is amazing since fully built MINIs were barely breaking 200whp a few years ago, unless you went twincharged or turbo-only.

On the other hand, whenever I sneak a peak at the R56 forums (2007 model year and newer MINIs), I see huge, fat torque curves and whimper. Turbo is still the way to go for producing way too much power than your front wheels will ever be able to handle. I don’t see it happening however, with loans and $4/gal gas over my head.