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Springtime MINI work, first track day

The MINI was off the road and up on jackstands for two weeks earlier this month, as I went about replacing the front control arm bushings, front ball joints, header, and added a short shift kit and new gauge faces.

It was an ordeal, but I’m glad to have done each and every item. The bushings were apparently shot, but the replacement Alta Positive Response Steering System firmed things up and gave me 1.5 degrees of added caster per side.

The old ball joints were probably fine but I replaced them anyway.

I bought a used Alta header off of North American Motoring for pretty cheap. It had been hacked off below the expansion pipe, so I went to Synapse Motorsport in Cohoes to get the stock cat and flange welded onto the new header. They were able to make a jig and get the fit perfect without ever laying an eye on the car.

The new header has three inch longer primaries than stock, but they featured identical bends. The car now pulls harder and sounds meaner, fer shure, and I’m not throwing any codes. Not sure on the air-fuel, but I did pull the plugs recently and they looked in tip-top shape, with 75,000 miles on them and a 100,000 recommended replacement interval.

I do have a new obnoxious exhaust heat shield rattle, but that’s due to the short shift kit install. I bought the Helix unit (but received some other company’s imitation piece) which snaps onto the stock shifting mechanism underneath, keeping the same geometry but reducing shifts by an advertised 37 percent or something. It’s pretty neat. I like it.

I also finally pulled the plug on OutMotoring‘s colored gauge faces. I got the charcoal color, which does indeed match up nearly perfectly with the stock black interior. I was a little disappointed when they first arrived, but that was mainly due to the chintzy-ness of having tachometer and speedometer faces in-hand. Once installed, I think they’re a real nice little improvement. And they look really great at night, with the different font and all the extra hashmarks.

Make sure you do the two little ‘mods’ to the back plastic, however, or you’ll get ugly “dead” spots not lit up. Also, if you’re a chronic speeder, be like me and leave the speedometer off-center and indicating 2 MPH faster than the car believes you’re going (ie. 5+ MPH faster than reality). Even though you know it’s wrong, you’ll still cruise at the same indicated speeds, and your blood pressure will not soar when you get behind some lumbering barge doing the speed limit (or under).

I also have some R56 front brakes to install, and new rear control arm bushings. Then it’s time for an alignment, and then June 12 is Watkins Glen International with Patroon BMWCCA.

I took photos which I’ll upload sometime, somewhere.

And I need to do some maintenance to that damn Subaru.

MINI Maintenance 2010

I’ve been looking the MINI over in preparation for the upcoming (autox / track / general driving) season and have compiled quite the list. The odometer has been sitting under 70k miles for awhile – but not much longer. Now it’s time to figure out what gets priority and what can hold off. Here’s my list so far:

  1. Crankshaft pulley
    I wasn’t expecting to need to do this, but after taking a look-see at the serp belt and related pulleys, there is clearly some “play” with the crank pulley that blurs it when running. The visible rubber between the two parts is free of cracks and looks fine, but the noticeable shimmy is worrisome. This is something better replaced before it fails out on the road, but it’s also something of a high cost repair, with replacement pulleys in the $400 range. Not a terrible DIY, but probably the most complicated of the bunch.
  2. Belt tensioner pulley
    This spring-loaded pulley tensions the serp belt and is notorious for early failure. My mechanic’s stethoscope pointed out that it’s making a lot of noise and ought to be replaced before it breaks and wreaks havoc. Replacements look to be in the $200 range, and the inglorious nature of the repair makes the cost sting that much more.
  3. Upper motor mount
    The 05-06 cars had these stupid upper hydraulic mounts that seemed to leak on most cars right from the get go. Mine has probably leaked all the fluid it had, and all its doing now is allowing excessive engine movement, putting more wear on other mounts and auxiliary connections. Not sure this is too urgent, and there is an aftermarket replacement for about $200.
  4. Lower front control arm bushings
    Here’s the one item I was actually looking forward to replacing, since Alta sells replacement bushings which are firmer and allow better suspension geometry to boot. I’d likely feel this change at autocross and track events. I was betting that my stock bushings were shot, as it’s about that time, I’m pretty hard on this car, and my last set of tires showed evidence of cupping. After checking the bushings, however, I saw no visible signs of wear to the rubber and there didn’t appear to be abnormal amounts of movement to them. The Alta set costs a hair over $200.

So the car has clearly lost that “new car” luster. It’s still a blast bombing around back roads in this wonderful weather we’ve been having. And at least I’m able to do all of this work myself, halving (at least!) the total bill. It’s not all bad being me, I suppose.

Damn, MINI Still Awesome

News flash: I’m still in love with my car.

Since installing new shocks and springs (see previous post in the motoring category), I had this really infuriating grinding noise coming from the rear-end. It sounded like metal on metal, like the entire subframe was about to drop off as I motored down the highway. But I drove it anyway, and nothing ever fell off. (I checked and retightened all related bolts and nuts, so I wasn’t quite as reckless as it sounds.)

Today I set about to figure out what the hell the sound was, because it got louder with the colder weather. I went about disassembling the suspension, step by step, isolating the noise. Removing the strut did nothing, so next up was the sway bar. And bingo, it turned out to be the sway bar bushings. Now I had expected these to need re-lubing eventually. What I didn’t expect was for it to sound so atrocious. The bushings are polyurethane, and this noise definitely sounded like metal on metal.

Anyway, a quick stop at NAPA to pick up some lube, and the rest of the day spent disassembling / reassembling, and I’m good to go. The suspension is once again quiet, and the car once again feels like a solid German automobile. (Not a Korean econobox.)

I’ve got some miscellaneous photos on my camera, but I’ll need to go to a wifi spot to upload them to Flickr. Some time.